This Austro-Hungarian city, 125 miles south of Budapest and a stone’s throw from the Croatian border, has always been at the intersection of Catholic, Muslim and Hungarian-Croatian cultures. Its narrow lanes are lined with buildings in myriad styles, from the Baroque designs of the 19th-century Habsburgs — in pinks and yellows, dappled with carved ornamentation or covered in Hungarian tile — to an Ottoman bathhouse and other remnants of the Turkish occupation.
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